Recently, there have been several high-profile incidents in the Republic of Sakha, for this quiet and remote region of Russia. The oil spill, hidden by the authorities, the bridge’s fall, and the conflict between the native Evenks and the gold miners. But about everything in order. To begin with, what is Yakutia anyway?
Basic information
The Republic of Sakha-Yakutia is the largest administrative unit in Russia and the world by area. It’s like India or Argentina. However, due to very difficult living conditions, the population there is very small: about 1 million, 38% of which live in the capital Yakutsk. The region has an extremely low population density: 1 person per 3 square kilometers! True, outside the window, it is often -50 and there it is winter still in April and already again in October. Real warmth comes only in May when the ice on the River Lena melts and it begins its course across the region. There are white nights in Yakutia in the summer. But the cold returns already at the end of August.
The coldest city in the world with a permanent population is also in Yakutia, it is Oymyakon. Also known as the Pole of Cold (recorded temperature -71.2 in 1933, colder except in Antarctica). The climate is very sharply continental: i.e. -50 in winter, +40 in summer! However, with the coming global warming, this may change (in fact, at -30 for the residents of Yakutia, it is already a reason to discuss it).
For -50 they can announce an act (because such decisions are put into effect by decrees) and cancel classes in schools (children can stay at home even at -45). To leave the house, you have to dress as if you are in Antarctica in winter. All the same, eyelashes, a hat and a scarf become wooden in the cold, and cosmetics flow quickly.
Houses are often built on stilts… no, not to save themselves from permafrost. On the contrary, so that the heat of the house does not melt the permafrost. Although again, due to global warming permafrost is becoming less and less…. therefore, this is a serious problem in the North – when the permafrost disappears, the piles thaw, and fall, and the house can collapse behind them. This is especially noticeable in the west, in the Arctic (Murmansk, Arkhangelsk and so on).
The earth is still constantly going back and forth. All communications are stretched in pipes to the outside, due to the dry climate with almost no wind outside, it is quite difficult to breathe, especially in fog. There is no sewage system in Yakutsk where melted snow (that is, water) could go. And because of the landfill and frequent fires on it, it is difficult to breathe in the summer as well.
Cars that are not silenced from autumn to spring, second glass, protected tyres and broken roads are also Yakutia. Yakutsk does not have the usual public transport, only private minibuses. Yes, they also drive around, they are jammed, there are few drivers, and the fleet is old. There are no normal parking lots either (although there are more than 120,000 cars in Yakutsk!). The infrastructure is also old – recently a bridge collapsed in Yakutia.
Interestingly, this is the only region of Russia divided into three time zones at once. 40% of the territory of Yakutia lies beyond the Arctic Circle, there are 700,000 rivers and streams, and 800,000 lakes. 80% of the territory is covered with forests, ⅔ is mountains or plateaus.
They like to eat fish here, as well as horse meat and stroganin (thin slices of frozen raw fish). But at times there is also bear meat. However, some vegetables and fruits, in particular watermelons, have time to ripen during the hot summer.
Water is extracted from the Buluus glacier 100 km from Yakutsk.
A short slice of history
Mammoths lived in Yakutia, as you probably heard. They are still found in the permafrost, they are perfectly preserved. The largest mammoth cemetery exists in the Allaikhov District, on the Berelekh River. There is a dinosaur cemetery in Khory. There is even a museum for them in Yakutsk. In 2012, they found part of a mammoth carcass with soft tissues that had not yet decomposed.
But the first people appeared in the Paleolithic era. At the beginning of our era, the ancestors of modern Evens and Evenks-Tungus tribes (yes, the Tungus meteorite is also nearby) came to the region. 10,000 years ago, an Asian group came, displacing the Paleo-Siberian (more modern for the Japanese and Chinese).
The Yakuts appeared in Sakha somewhere at the turn of the 12th-14th centuries, they came from Baikal to the Lena and Aldan rivers. The Evenks and Yukagyrs were either assimilated or pushed out. The Yakuts brought with them polar herding, handicrafts, and permanent dwellings. In the 17th century, the local prince Tygin Darkhan, the hero of many Yakut legends and tales, is mentioned. Tygin is the grandfather of the legendary first leader of the Yakuts, Badjei. There is no consensus on the reality of this dynasty. The death of Tygin is presented as a turning point in the history of Yakutia and is primarily connected with the appearance of the Russians.
The Cossacks became the first Muscovites on these lands in 1623. They went down the River Lena. In 1632, they founded their first city – Lensky Ostrog, later – Yakutsk. After 10 years, it was flooded, so the construction was moved to the other bank of the Lena, in the Tuimaada valley. Yakutsk quickly became a trading city, where fur, meat and fish were exchanged for Russian goods. The last thing left of the fortress – the wooden gate tower – burned down in 2002. Now it is replaced by an installation.
The Yakuts united and tried to fight and besieged the fortress, but the Cossacks repelled the attacks. The attacks stopped. This is the fundamental difference between the Yakuts and their neighbors the Chukchi, with whom the Russian Empire fought for more than 150 years and was never able to win by military means (but only by bribing the leaders). However, there was still a long way to go.
In 1638, the Yakut Voivodeship was founded. Since then, deportations to Yakutia have begun. Archers, rebels of Stepan Razin, Old Believers. However, it became purely political only in the 19th century. There were Decembrists, participants in the uprising in Poland in 1863, and social democrats. Interesting fact: in 1916, the governor of Yakutia de Witte refused to comply with the tsar’s decree on the “mobilization of foreigners for rear-line work in the army” during the First World War. But already in 1918, important events began to play out in Yakutia. In general, the period of 1918-1932 went down in history as a period of genuine Yakut resistance to Russian occupation.
So, in 1918, the Yakuts declared a state independent from the (then) Russian Republic. This became known as the Yakut Revolution. In February, the Yakutia Regional Council was formed, which took an anti-Bolshevik position. Already in March, the Central Committee of the Soviets of Siberia sent a detachment of 400 communists to Yakutia. In June, they occupied Olekminsk and the village of Tabago, getting the opportunity to surround Yakutsk from three sides. By July 1, the city fell to the Bolsheviks. However, they were quickly expelled, and Yakutia became an autonomy within the anti-Bolshevik Siberian Republic, which lasted, however, for a short time. Then it came under the rule of Kolchak, who was defeated by the communists in 1919-20. But that was just the beginning.
In 1921, a very strange thing for the region broke out in Yakutia – an uprising. Also anti-Soviet, which relied on the Yakut People’s Army and the remnants of the wives of the Siberian Republic. Yakutia came under complete control of the Soviets as early as 1923 after two years of bloody clashes between the Reds and the Whites. This was the last act of the Civil War in Russia.
However, the harsh and illegal actions of the communists led to a new outbreak already 12 months later – the Tunguska Uprising of the Evenks. The reasons were significant: the closing of ports for foreign trade, liquidation of private property, interruptions in importing goods, confiscation of deer, and seizing pastures for new buildings.
In 1925, a truce was concluded. In the same year, the Evenks managed to create their own Tunguska People’s Republic. But in 1927, everything flared up again, now under the leadership of confederation supporters. It was already drowned in blood: 128 were shot, 130 were imprisoned, and many of them did not know anything about these uprisings at all and were caught “for the company”. Collectivization arrived in 1930 by the Bulun Uprising and in 1932 by the Taimyr Uprising.
Also, in the 1920s, gold deposits were explored for the first time, and in the 1930s, the port of Tiksi was built at the mouth of the River Lena. In the 1950s, diamonds were found in the west of Yakutia.
During the Second World War, 13 natives of Yakutia were awarded the title of Heroes of the USSR. Of course, by the 1950s, Yakutia had a system of 105 Gulag camps that occupied one-third of the republic. Then it was dubbed “prison without bars”. In Yakutia, the Kolyma highway, also known as the “Road of Death”, began. It was laid on the bones of the repressed. Those who did not comply with the norm or resisted were killed.
On 27 September 1990, Yakutia adopted the Declaration of State Sovereignty. In 1991, the position of president of the republic was established. Mykhailo Nikolaev was the first. At the same time, the name was changed to Sakha (Yakutia). About half of the population speaks the Yakut language and uses it in everyday life.
Economy of Yakutia
The region has 1,823 deposits of 58 types of minerals. In particular, 82% of Russia’s diamonds (and a quarter of all diamonds in the world), 60% of Russia’s uranium, 47% of known coal reserves, and 35% of natural gas and oil in all of Eastern Siberia and the Far East are mined here. Another 16 potential deposits have been poorly explored.
The most famous place for mining diamonds is the Mir kimberlite pipe. Uranium is concentrated in the south of Yakutia. The region also holds 20% of all Russian gold reserves. In 2023, it became known that 10 new oil and gas fields were discovered in Yakutia over the past five years.
By the end of 2024, they plan to extract 50 tons of gold and 200 tons of silver. The work is carried out by Rosatom, which plans to reach the “industrial level of production”. According to the volume of gold mining, Yakutia has already taken second place in Russia. But it is still often mined illegally.
In total, about 5% of the territory of Yakutia has been explored for minerals. The estimated value of all underground wealth is estimated at approximately 2.5 trillion US dollars. The profits, however, are managed by the Russians on the spot and in the Kremlin. That does not add to the love of Muscovites among the local Yakuts. Especially since there are enough points of conflict.
For example, the Surgutnaftogaz company hid the oil spill in Yakutia for almost a week. The locals filmed it in photos and videos, which later ended up on local Telegram channels. Moreover, at the request of the local ministry, the oil workers said that there was no spill. Environmentalists were allowed in only 5 days after the incident, and even then they were allowed to inspect the well only from 300 metres.
Similar behaviour of “Surgutngaftogaz” and their confidence in impunity can be explained quite simply: it is the second business in the region in terms of the amount of taxes paid. This was said not by anyone, but by the head of the Republic of Sakha, Aysen Nikolaev (after the diamond giant ALROSA). The prize is a trillion rubles (!) – four times more than the budget of the Republic. In addition, as it became known, “Surgutnaftogaz” sells oil to locals at a 35% higher price than to the Chinese. At the same time, they continue to enjoy benefits in Yakutia.
Another conflict that happened a few days ago is between the Evenks and gold miners “Nordgold”. Although it has been going on for four years, yet another exacerbation has occurred.
Indigenous people even wrote letters to Putin, and the company called them “foreign agents.” Residents of the village of Tianya claim that due to the expansion of the mining zone, fish will die, forests will disappear, and deer habitat will decrease. In general, it is a protected land of the people with the sacred lake Usu and the sources of the rivers Charuoda and Tokko. The Evenks even declared that this “threatens the existence of our people.” Nordgold is included in the US sanctions list and still has connections with the sanctioned oligarch Mordashov. Vn owns deposits not only in Russia but also in Kazakhstan, Burkina Faso and Guinea. Gold was mined on the lands of the Evenks back in 2002. But in 17 years, the relationship reached a critical point.
Cost of living in Yakutia
Living in Yakutia is expensive. Not even that. Very expensive.
To lure workers into such difficult, almost inhumane conditions, Yakutia offers rather high salaries. According to this indicator, the region is in the top 10 in the Russian Federation and occupies the seventh place (a high salary is considered higher than 100 thousand rubles or 45.5 thousand UAH). In Yakutia, more than a quarter of the population already receives such payments. But in the capital, Yakutsk, you can feel the contrasts: someone gets 50,000, and someone gets all of 120.
Somewhere in 5 years, half will be able to have 100 thousand. This is justified because the prices for literally everything – from the Internet to food and housing – are much higher than on the mainland. Often several times higher.
For example, outfits. Winter clothes, surprisingly, are quite expensive (up to 250,000 rubles for a fur coat, 150,000 for a down jacket). And also the legendary Yakut unts. They are sewn from the skin of deer legs (up to 55,000 rubles). Additional value is added to untams by white – decorative embroidery (the more, the more expensive).
According to the latest data, a family of four in Yakutsk needs approximately 170,500 rubles per month. For one – 76,000. In shocking contrast, pensions in the region are simply ridiculous – up to 30,000 rubles. How can pensioners survive without support? Northern allowances apply – up to 80% of the salary (for those born here or those who have lived for 5 years before starting work). There are also regional ones for difficult climates. But this is all only for employment contracts.
A one-room apartment can cost from 4.5 to 9.5 million rubles.
Indigenous nation and prospects for independence
Five indigenous nations of northern Russia live in Yakutia: Yakuts, Evenks, Evens, Yukahirs, and Chukchis. Unlike the same Tyumen, Yakuts make up the majority in the republic. There are almost 480,000 of them there. Evenks occupy the third place with 40,000 people. Half as many Evens.
The Yakuts are believed to be the direct descendants of the Kurikans, an ancient tribe of Siberia from the beginning of our era. The tradition of horse breeding remained from them in Yakutia. The Mongols pushed them to the middle of Lena, which was the beginning of the Sakha. The Yakut language belongs to the Turkic language. In addition to Sakha, the people are also called Uraanghai. In Yakutia, they are developing carvings based on the bones of mammoths. This art began in the 18th century. The Yakuts have also long been excellent jewellers. But jewellery was also made as charms. The main holiday of Ysyach is the day of the return of the sun on June 21. The culmination of the holiday is the Osuokhai round dance. They meet the sun, feed the fire, cleanse themselves of evil spirits, drink koumiss, and eat food made from the meat of stallions.
For the most part, Yakuts are engaged in horse and cattle breeding. It was only in the 19th century that they began to try to plant grain in Yakutia. Only the Soviet government brought full-fledged agriculture. And they lived (and in some places still live) in yurts. Conical in summer and wide gable in winter. Log yurts appeared later.
Evenks and Evens are Tungus. Interestingly, this indigenous race suffered more from the Chinese Manchus than from the Russians. In the early years of Soviet power, several hundred Evenks wanted to flee to the People’s Republic of China but were shot. Evenks are mainly engaged in hunting and breeding deer. They even drive on the latter, this is a purely Evenki feature.
Customs are aimed at the harmonious coexistence of man with nature, developed animism. The Evenks are called “aristocrats of the tundra” for their beautiful, elegant and refined costumes. They are also world famous for bead weaving. The totem animal is a bear, a symbol of ancient ancestors. Evenk shamans were considered the strongest in Siberia.
The Evens are considered a separate branch of the Evenks, although the peoples are very similar to each other. The Evens broke away from the Evenks and went north, mixing with others (Chukchi, Koryaks, Itelmen). They do the same things as the Evenks: they breed deer, fish, and hunt. Unless they liked to chase the beast with dogs. In ancient times, the Evens were good blacksmiths and generally all-rounders with wood, metals and hides. It was not permitted to use broken dishes or spoiled things – they belonged to the dead.
Literature and cinematography based on local legends and folklore are currently being developed in Yakutia. Due to the preservation of their own language and political organization, the Yakuts are in better conditions than other nations enslaved by Russia. The recent history of uprisings, detachment from the centre of decision-making and incredibly rich subsoil make Yakutia one of the first candidates to leave the so-called Russian Federation. The Yakuts understand very well the expression “Enough of feeding Moscow!”, because it happens literally: 65% of Yakutia’s profits are taken by the Russian capital.
There will probably come a time when local elites say enough is enough. Either on the wave of nationalism or due to economic reasons, Yakutia will try to leave the shackles of the empire. Muscovites did not manage to spread Christianity strongly. Pagan beliefs still prevail here, such as Tengrianism – the worship of Heaven. The Mongols brought it with them. The Yakuts believe in their “divine choice”, by the way.
You can also play the pan-Turkism card because Yakuts are Turks. It will be more difficult because the movement has declined after 2014, but contacts with Central Asia and Turkey should help.
Anatoly Maksimov
